How and where to start preparing the car for drifting?
If you want to go the easy way, then choose a car originally suitable for driving in skidding. That is, with как сделать машину для дрифт a balance close to ideal, rear-wheel drive and sufficient power. For example, such popular cars as Nissan Silvia, Mazda RX-7, Toyota Mark2, BMW M3, M5, Nissan Skyline, Subaru Impreza. Of course, for drift any rear drive car, or all-wheel drive with a mechanically remote front-wheel drive, and if you want you can build drift-car from what you want.
1. Body selection:
With a specific choice of your future drift-car, we recommend paying special attention to the condition of the bodywork. Choose the most fresh and sturdy body. First, you will spend time and money on the bodywork improvement, and not its repair, and secondly, the whole body is always stronger and less prone to corrosion than even perfectly welded and rebuilt.
2. Body modification:
Basically, all the improvements are reduced to the installation of the security cage, to the relief (by cutting out excess iron), to clean the body of the regular noise insulation, to remove unnecessary interior elements: the rear seats, the luggage compartment shelf, etc. Also, it will not hurt to weld all body seams with additional points, which will positively affect the rigidity of the entire body.
Further, the fight against excess weight requires replacing the wings, bonnet, trunk lid on fiberglass (if you have a good sponsor, you can also use carbon fiber). All the glass, except for the front, we change to polycarbonate glass (the recommended thickness is 3mm). With a competent approach, you can reduce the weight of the machine by 10-20%, which will have a very positive impact on handling.
First of all, it must be rigid and low. We recommend selecting a coil-over kit (coil-over — a height-adjustable and / or stiff suspension unit consisting of a rack with a height-adjustable bottom spring cup and the spring itself) with the widest possible range of adjustments. Each suspension manufacturer has the following models: Bilstein-B16, Koni-Coil-Over kit, H & R-RSS Club Sport Coil Overs, Ultra Low Coil overs, KW-variant 1,2,3, Eibach-Multi-Pro-R1, R2, Tein — Super Street, Super Drift, APEXi — S1, N1, as well as D2, K-sport, XYZ, etc. You can get acquainted with top models for drift in any catalog of sports and tuning spare parts. Note that the upper supports of the racks should preferably be chosen with a hinged joint (AL) — this has a very positive effect on handling due to the absence of rubber elements. But the impact of suspension on the body in this case will be felt very, very sharp.
Levers should preferably be replaced with adjustable silicone blocks replaced with ALS. If this is not possible, then at least change to fresh rubber silent blocks, or even better — to rigid polyurethane ones.
It will also positively affect the controllability of the extension bars of the suspension racks and the more rigid stabilizers of lateral stability.
The necessary refinement of the steering is associated with the responsiveness of the car to your actions with the steering wheel and the maximum possible angle of rotation of the wheels. The severity of the steering depends on the degree of modification of the suspension, the installed size of the wheels, the profile and composition of the rubber, as well as the design of the steering system. If your car is equipped with a steering gear, then, most likely, its completion is to be concluded only in repair and adjustment, or in replacement on the steering rack. If your car is already equipped with a steering rack, then you need to find a rail with the minimum number of revolutions of the steering wheel from the stop to the stop, which will allow the car to react more sharply to your actions and make it easier to operate the steering wheel while rearranging. Further, the tail fins and swivel fists are refined, which will allow you to increase the angle of rotation of the wheels, and consequently the angle of skidding. And remember the most important thing: the steering system should always be in perfect condition, do not have any backlash and other signs of fatigue of the helmsman. All the rubber bands should be replaced in a timely manner, the assembly-camber is adjusted.
To begin with, it is recommended to learn with a low-power motor in order to understand what power is needed. Well, and not to get killed before time. In the future, an approximate calculation of the power is 250-300 (?) Hp. per ton of weight. The nature of the motor should allow you to tear the machine into a skid and maintain it from the minimum low speed. This is the nature of atmospheric motors with a large volume, for example, S38B38 from BMW M5, or engines with a system of twin turbo, for example, 1JZ-GTE, 2JZ-GTE from Toyota Chaser Tourer V and Toyota Supra; RB26DETT from Nissan Skyline GTR, an excellent light turbocharged engine — SR20DETT from Nissan Silvia S15. So when building or choosing a motor, focus on its torque at low and medium revs.
Next you will encounter the problem of overheating or even boiling of oil and coolant. You should start with the installation of high-quality additional sensors: Febi, APEXi, GReddy, HKS, Siemens VDO (and for domestic cars a fine budget solution will be devices and sensors from VAZ-2106, UAZ, etc.), which in time will warn you about the danger. Well, to finally protect yourself from this, you need to install a more efficient coolant cooler. If the car is equipped with a cooling system by a fan with a thermal coupling, we recommend replacing it with an electric fan. In the oil cooling system, you need to install an oil cooler, if you do not rule out exploitation in the coldest time — do not forget about the oil thermostat or manual throttle.
Many drifters are faced with another problem — oil starvation. It is solved either by installing a pallet with anti-drainage walls, or by overflowing the oil above the maximum level by 1-2 liters (the method is quite old and simple). Do not be afraid for leaking oil seals, and even if they run — then their periodic replacement will cost you much cheaper than repairing the motor.
You can equip the engine with a special transverse shock absorber — it saves your engine cushions when you work with the gas pedal in a drift, sudden starts from the place and when the engine brakes.
Clutching in drifting is considered an expense. We advise you to select it based on personal preferences. If the standard clutch allows you to realize the power of the motor, it is most likely that its periodic replacement each season will be cheaper than buying an expensive two-disk set. In the event of a slippage of the stock clutch or frequent overheating, change it to ceramics — one or two-disk, depending on the degree of engine modifications and your budget. But together with the clutch do not rush to purchase a lightweight flywheel — most likely it will make the character of the car more nervous — think carefully if you need it while maintaining the skid
7. Rear Axle Gearbox:
What is of course necessary for drifting is the locking of the differential. It is possible that your car is already locked from the factory, and even allows both of your wheels to participate in the skid, but this lock is not always suitable for high-level drift. You can, of course, fork out and purchase an expensive lock (for example, 1.5 Way, 2 Way, OBX), but there is a way to save a good amount of money — this is to weld a differential. Contrary to popular belief, riding on a welded differential will not bring problems, and the sensations when riding are comparable to a 2 way lock.
8. Rubber and wheels:
Install as light discs as possible with low-profile rubber. On the front we recommend slicks or half-breds, this will in many respects help you get rid of understeer in case of its presence. At the rear, choose the type of rubber on which you will be able to drive the car in a skid, but remember that when rearranging and accelerating in a skid you need a good grip of the rear wheels with asphalt, so the best, but not cheap, is to use a good new rubber.
Primary refinements for the convenience of driving a car in a skid are sport seats — buckets.
You can concentrate on driving a car, not holding your body in place, and the feeling of a car will grow at times. When choosing, take into account its weight, side support and the presence of homologation (necessary in case of participation in official competitions). Also, do not forget about multipoint belts that save you in the event of a collision or coup.
Be sure to take care of the fire extinguisher, it can come in handy not only for you.
Install a hydraulic handbrake, it will help you to tear the car into a skid gently and sensitively. The helmsman cuts into the main brake circuit and does not have any ropes, which means that the cables do not stretch or break in it.
We hope that after reading this article, you will have a general idea of the necessary modifications of the car, and you will have something to build on when building your car for drift.
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